Cladding Fundamentals: Top Ten Instructions For Receiving It Right

Deciding which type of cladding nails stainless steel is ideal for the best way to set it up is a true art when the cladding is designed to last and last. We will discuss the most critical aspects to consider when selecting to specify and install wood cladding.

1) Use The Right Species

The selection of hex set screws is usually dependent on its appearance, along with durability and cost. Of them, the most significant is durability.

Evaluating its performance and class is the essential factor in determining good specifications. The most commonly used softwood species used for timber cladding are woods like Western red cedar and larch.

For instance, nuts screw could last for 20 years without coating, whereas Larch could last only 15 years. Therefore, knowing the wood’s longevity can be considered the very first thing towards the proper covering.

Most popular timbers for cladding include oak and sweet chestnut. However, when deciding which to use for cladding, it is recommended to look up a robust database. The Wood species database can be a great starting point.

2) Think About Moisture Content

Understanding how the stainless steel nails react to variations in the moisture content of water is crucial for ensuring long-lasting and high performance. One aspect to consider is the size of the wood used.

This is because restricting the width of boards to 150mm or less makes both swelling and shrinkage manageable. The tongued and grooved boards have to be narrower with maximum widths of 120mm. This reduces the possibility of the tongues separating from the grooves as the boards shrink.

If an open-jointed cladding method is utilised, light and water may be able to penetrate the substructure. Therefore, it is essential to consider waterproofing the doors and windows. There may be a need to put a UV-resistant breather material on the structure itself.

3) Use The Right Fixings

Utilising stainless steel nails is advised for softwood cladding, no matter if the material will be painted. The length of the nails is also vital.

If you are using wire nails, they must be long enough for the point-side penetration that is 2.5x that of the thickness the board is cladding into a batten that supports it.

For instance, fixing a 20mm thick board requires 50mm entry into the batten with nails that are 70mm long. Annular Ring shank nails (sometimes called improved nails) only require two-fold penetration on the point side of the thickness of the board.

It is common to apply two nails at quarter points along the length of the plank. Installers generally employ stainless steel screws to attach to support battens with two fixings placed on quarters of the board. They also drill holes that are slightly bigger to permit expansion and shrinkage.

4) Ensure Good Support Battens

Battens of cladding treated with preservers must be parallel to the cladding boards. According to the profile of the board and the installation method, Vertical counter battens might be required to supply ventilation and drainage. Horizontal battens need to be chamfered to let water out.

5) Remember Ventilation

The maintenance of plastic washers and airflow in the area behind the cladding is crucial. The reason for this is to provide the durability of the cladding, to speed up drying, and also to balance the water content on both sides.

The flashing elements at the base of the cladding and around doors and windows should be designed to drain moisture away from the structure and still provide vital air circulation.

Review the requirements for fire-resistant cavities with local building controls and think about using third-party certified ventilation-controlled cavity barriers.

6) Consider Coatings

Before deciding on the coatings to be used, it is recommended to think about the expected longevity of the coating and the maintenance schedule that is required.

Some owners might be unaware of the significance of maintaining their layers to ensure durability and performance. Clear coatings, such as varnishes and oils, typically require a preemptive re-application every one or two years, so they’re not an ideal alternative.

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If the coating’s surface is damaged and causes weathering or discolouration on the timber, applying the layer again will not suffice since it will seal off the discolouration and trap moisture. Stains and paints last longer; however, they do naturally require regular applications.

7) The Devil Is In The Detail

There are design aspects in the cladding that can assist in avoiding moisture traps as well as aid in water management. Projections can result in splashback; therefore, cutting the edges of vertical cladding boards to an angle can allow water to drain away.

A gap of 8mm nylon nuts should be utilised when the ends of the grain are exposed, for example, in corner posts, to decrease the chance of water accumulating against them.

8) Use Proper Installation

Be sure to inspect cladding boards before when they are put up. Spreading the boards out open, well-ventilated and open-sided will limit the risk of moisture exposure and permit airflow to reduce the chance of significant discolouration.

The ideal moisture content of wood cladding during installation should be kept between 16% to 18 percent to limit the possibility of significant distortion or movement.

When surface coatings are applied, they must be applied to all faces before installation to prevent unfinished wood from being exposed as the cladding shrinks or expands.

9) Keep An Eye On Weathering

If the timber exterior panel is treated with no coating, it’ll be weathered naturally and change to silver-grey in time because of sunlight and moisture.

The exterior timber cladding that is not coated will always weather and that is to be expected. It’s not a good option to choose clear finishes to preserve the colour as they require high maintenance levels.

10) Reduce The Risk Of Discolouration

Extractive staining happens when water-soluble elements in wood are brought to the surface but are not being washed away by rainwater.

The timbers such as the oak and Western red cedar are characterised by significant levels of extractives that cannot wash away when the cladding is protected. If staining from extractives occurs, it can be eliminated, and the natural colour is restored or fades with time.


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